Discretely located in the southern wing of Prince Roland Bonaparte’s former townhouse, the one Michelin-starred L’Abeille restaurant begins a new chapter in its history with Executive Chef Christophe Moret’s culinary tour de force, orchestrated with exceptional ingredients; flavours, textures and colours all take their places in a superb gourmet symphony.
Composed in harmony with nature, Chef Moret’s first menu perfectly complements the restaurant’s delightful setting overlooking a vast French garden. Originating from a desire to deconstruct the classic Tarte Flambée of Alsace, a truffled bread crust holds a soubise of caramelized onions and roasted chicory. Hen Pheasant is given a delicious new interpretation in the form of a magnificent "quenelle" accompanied by truffled salsify cooked three ways and some crunchy crisps. Sole Meunière is presented in an updated version: the bone beautifully recreated with artichokes and truffles, accompanied by preserved tomatoes.
This new menu reveals the full range of the Chef’s creativity, offering a magnificent celebration of French ingredients and an impressive openness to cuisines from all over the world, such as the poached, snacked Foie Gras dusted with Lapsang Souchong tea accompanied by little balls of yellow, green and red radish, and a perfect duck consommé also delicately flavoured with black tea.
"The Best from Our Market Gardeners" offers a delightful composition of clusters and sprigs and slices of fresh vegetables, with pickled winter vegetables on a silky homemade tofu. Here Chef Moret illustrates one of his principles: to always offer dishes that will satisfy customers in search of a gourmet vegan meal.
An outstanding sauce Chef, he dazzles with his virtuoso compositions, such as the scallop beard juice and beetroots juice with a hint of sherry, which underscores the delicacy of the golden brown scallops beautifully accompanied by crapaudine beets. An oyster "marinière" sauce enhances the freshness of pearly white sea bass, presented on a bed of ocean condiments. The rich game sauce unites the textures and colours of a Roasted Lobster in perfect harmony, accompanied by a quartet of Thierry Riant squash: kabocha, Hungarian blue, butternut and Musquée de Provence.
Infused with truffle for 48 hours, the Bresse chicken from Alexandre Mazuir merits two services: first, a reintroduction of the art of carving by the maître d’hôtel brings the supreme dish on a round of vegetables in pastry, topped with an exquisite giblet crouton. The second service, consisting of "meatballs" made from the thighs in a perfect chicken broth with truffled tapioca, confirms the Chef’s inventiveness. The same can be said of the (re)discovery of the farmhouse Aveyron veal tongue, ear, head, sweetbreads and loin, or the lacquered shoulder of lamb – carved in the dining room. Deliciously melting, it goes wonderfully with the spelt cooked in coconut milk accompanied by dried and candied fruit.
Coated with three types of pepper and juniper, the French venison cutlets are to be savoured with a selection of garden vegetables slowly cooked in a Romertopf®, and once again served by the maître d’hôtel.
Created by Pastry Chef François Perret, the range of desserts is perfectly in tune with the new menu. The slight acidity of the mikan tangerine inspires a sorbet mischievously placed inside a semi-cooked meringue, while a rice pudding with raspberry juice is accompanied by a meringue that reveals truffle ice-cream.
Head Sommelier Cédric Maupoint has come up with new wine-and-food pairings in honour of this wonderfully flavourful menu. His recommendation for a harmonious accompaniment to the Roasted Lobster is red wine, such as the Morey-Saint-Denis 2009 Domain François Feuillet; for the Pollack Steak glazed with Yogurt and Caramelised Radicchio, he suggests the beautiful acidity of a Loire wine, such as the Savennières Domaine aux Moines 2008, and a Dassai 23 sake for the lightly cooked Sea Bass with Ocean Condiments.
Open Tuesday to Saturday, dinner only, from 7:30 to 10:30 p.m.
Valet car service
Reservations on (33 1) 5367 1990 or firstname.lastname@example.org
> Have a look at the menu
Executive Chef: Christophe Moret
Pastry Chef: François Perret
Restaurant Director: Christophe Kelsch
Head Sommelier: Cédric Maupoint
Short biography of Christophe Moret
After working under Bruno Cirino and Jacques Maximin, and spells at Le Louis XV, Royal Monceau and 59 Poincaré, Chef Christophe Moret opened Spoon, Food & Wine in Paris in 1998. He then kept Alain Ducasse’s three stars at the Plaza Athénée for seven years, before taking on another Paris institution, Lasserre, in 2010. He joined Shangri-La Hotel, Paris in January 2015 as executive chef.